PARIS, A LITTLE COUNTRY IN EUROPE

WHENEVER people ask me what it’s like to live in Paris, I tell them, “Paris is an African Country right in the middle of Europe, when of course you remove barriers like language and culture.

 

Even though I am 11699 kilometres away from my home in Harare, Zimbabwe, I never feel lonely as I have enlarged my family with brothers and sisters from different parts of Africa and have adopted some positive aspects of their culture. For instance, I now speak Pijin fluently and I don’t need any help preparing Egusi and Ndole, popular dishes which have their origin in Nigeria and Cameron respectively.

 

If you’re African, Chateau Rouge, located in the 18^th arrondissement will not doubt be your plug. This is where you will find all the food items, to prepare most African dishes and hair products and stylists for afro hair. You will also find all manner of traditional African medicine along Rue Myrha.

 

Chateau Rouge is my version of Mbare Musika(a popular marketplace in the high-density suburb of Mbare in Harare), which coincidentally is my hometown. Those familiar with the marketplace know that its vibe is not for everyone, it’s an acquired taste. But then again, this is where you can find anything and everything.

Translated into English, Chateau Rouge means 'red castle', but it resembles nothing like a castle. A visit there is not for the timid, you must hold onto your purse for dear life while at the same time being extremely alert because as soon as you step out of the metro(subway), touts will accost you to either get your hair or nails done. In Harare, we call them “sisi huya tipeme” (sister come let us make your hair). 

 

What I could not get over for the longest time was the sight of roasted mealies vendors on the streets. Like seriously? But the sight of a vendor right next to the Arch de Triomphe situated on the most famous avenue in Paris took the trophy.

 

But what really convinced me Paris was indeed an African country long before France won the Soccer World cup in 2018 with an almost all-African team was the number of African herbs, portions and concoctions sold on the street and a large number of Pentecostal churches.

A little further on is Macadet which I refer to as Nigeria, owing to the number of Nigerian shops and restaurants in the area. This is where I had my first taste of Egusi, soup. Being in Macadet feels a lot like home, especially when I visit Oga Emeka’s restaurant which is popularly known as number 21. It’s a famous meeting place for the “who’s who” in the Nigerian community.

At number 21 I’ve rubbed shoulders with diplomats, doctors, lawyers, and politicians who frequent the restaurant to discuss the socio-economic and political problems in their country.

 

We definitely cannot talk about Paris without mentioning Rhumba music. Bobigny is a suburb in Paris located in zone 3 and is probably not one of the safest areas to visit but then if you're a Rhumba lover this is home to a dime a dozen Congolese nightclubs. Popular artists like Koffi Olomide and Fally Ipupa have since made Paris their second home.

 

But during the times when I feel like being in “Paris as seen on TV and in the magazines,” I wonder off to Avenue Champs Elysees, where you find all the famous brand stores like Louis Vuitton, Dior, Longchamp, Gucci and Ferragamo but on the other side of the street where the sun is unfiltered, you’ll find low-end shops like Zara H&M, Sephora etc. I don’t know if this is deliberate but there is more shade on the side where the high-end shops are. 

 

I usually just go there for “people watching” a favourite pastime of mine where I just go on the street, find somewhere to sit and just watch people.  I get to see a lot of fashion, celebrities, tourists and just ordinary Parisiennes going about their business. 

 

Avenue Champs Elysees also houses the Arche de Triomphe, a famous monument which honours those who fought during the French revolution and of course the Napoleonic wars.

 

After this, there are other prominent arrondissements like 15eme where my first home in Paris La Maison des Journalists is located. Apartments cost around 2 million for 100m2.

 

Then there are decent but not so expensive places like 13eme where I live. This area is referred to as China Town, because of the number of Asians living there. There are also lots of Asian shops and restaurants in that area.

 

I cannot get over how cosmopolitan this city of light is. I guess this is what makes it a warm place with all the comforts of home. Paris is a city of contrasts with the good, the bad and the ugly. But for an African, it can provide a home away from home.